Hong Kong - Like Expats Without the View

From 1997-2003, my parents lived as expats in Hong Kong for my dad's job. My parents had the choice of either Singapore or Hong Kong to base themselves, and since my dad traveled all the time anyways, it was really more of my mom's decision - and she unequivocally picked Hong Kong.  I remember thinking that Singapore sounded like an easier place to live (i.e. it wasn't about to become China), but my parents knew that there was something special about Hong Kong. We were fortunate enough to visit them when they lived there and we both fell in love with it - I would probably consider it my favorite city in the world (ok, besides San Francisco).

Fast forward 10 years, and Hong Kong was 100% on my list of must-sees on our big trip. I couldn't wait to show the kids my parents' old stomping grounds. Then we looked at the prices - ouch! For a few days, we actually considered NOT going to Hong Kong because we thought we couldn't afford it, but we are SO glad we extensively researched and found a great place to stay to give us the true flavor of Hong Kong living.  Of course, our tiny 2-bedroom apartment over the Flower Market in Mongkok didn't have quite the same views as my parents' gorgeous apartment in Mid-Levels, but gave us a great feel to how *real* Hong Kong families live.

Bus ride on the way to the Peak - fun to sit in the double decker bus!

My parents' old street

View from the top of the Peak

For those who have never been to HK, or know little about it, I think the general assumption is that it is just another big Asian metropolis.  The truth is that while Central Hong Kong Island and parts of Kowloon are certainly bustling and filled with skyscrapers, over 70% of Hong Kong itself is more like the countryside. Some of our favorite Hong Kong experiences were hiking, playing at the beach, and biking along the river.

Beach of Lamma Island

 One thing that continues to impress us as we make our way around Asia is how safe it is for kids. We have let the kids have freedoms we wouldn't have really considered in safe, suburban San Mateo. Hong Kong felt incredibly safe.  As I mentioned in my last post (2 Months In), we left the boys on Lamma Island and let them take a ferry, subway, and then walk back to our apartment.  We hope that we are able to translate that into more freedom for the kids when we get home - we know they are capable.

Other things we loved about Hong Kong:

• the combination of British/Chinese culture - the city was cleaner and "kinder" than Beijing or Shanghai, but still retained a great Chinese feel.
• the egg tarts
  
• the elevators that take commuters down to Central from Mid-Levels in the mornings, then turn around and take them back up the hill in the afternoons and evenings.  Not a bad commute.
  
• the Star Ferry - the best $1 boat ride in the world

• the MTR - great subway system that was efficient, not too crowded (usually), and cheap!
• Kowloon - we stayed on the Kowloon side of Hong Kong (as opposed to HK Island) and found great food, great stores, nice people
• No staring! This was the first time in a month the kids weren't stared at constantly. While I don't doubt that they like the attention at times, having a break from it was a bit of a relief.
• tailors-for-life. We visited Singh, my dad's "tailor-for-life" to have custom suits made for the boys' bar mitzvah (10 days after we return). One less thing to worry about - and they built in MANY inches for my growing boys. Brian even got one, too!
  

• Dim Sum. We didn't eat enough dim sum, but when we did - wow. 
  
• The Asia Society. We spent a day with a friend of my parents who still lives there. She is a docent at the Asia Society, and we got a fabulous personalized tour of their new exhibit, much of which highlighted places we have been/are going on our trip. 
• taking the gondola up to the Big Buddha on Lantau Island and then deciding to hike back at 4:30 at night. Great trail under the gondola primarily made up of stairs. Great views - too bad we got back in the dark, and had to wander another few miles around Lantau (with another lost American!) until we found the MTR stop! :)

All in all, a terrific 9 days in Hong Kong.  For anyone who is considering going to Hong Kong - I can't recommend it enough. I can even give you pointers on finding a relatively cheap place to stay!